Уважаемые господа, ответьте на такие вопросы
когда Вы приобретали оборудование почему не задали вопрос: есть ли на этот наружный блок зимний комплект? Чем не понравился RR125, он великолепно дорабатывается?
To td_pominov
Попробуйте обратиться за консультацией в Эйркул в Питере.
Они продают Refco, может помогут Вашей беде.
тел. (812)279-9865, 327-3821
e-mail: info@aircool.ru
Лет так 8 назад сталкивался с инструкцией по монтажу сплитов carrier, так вот там был интересный раздел по заправке кондиционерв с капиллярной тубкой по перегреву.
Я много раз заправлял так, что интересно проводил опыт с качивал, взвешивал сравнивал шильдой и получал точный результат.
Там был график нахождения расчетного перегрева к которому нужно было стремиться (я его многим рассылал) заправляя систему.
У DAIKIN есть прибор назвывается Анализатор инвертора.
Принцип работы очень прость: прибор подсоединяется в место компрессора и по состоянию светодиодов можно определить неисправность плата или компрессор, этот прибор годиться для любых инверторов не обязательно DAIKIN!
Марка его RSUK0917, код для заказа №1368521 спрашивать у дистрибьютеров.
Как вариант ГЕРМЕТИЗИРУЮЩИЙ КАРАНДАШ LA-CO продается в СПС-ХОЛОД.
"Заклееное место утечки выдерживает давление 30 атмосфер, температуру 170-180 градусов С, ... держит все фреоны, аммиак, воду, масло." - рекл. буклет
Я в свое время ремонтировал им испарители в домашних холодильниках.
Мне один знакомый про такой вентилятор вот что прислал:
GEOFF'S ORIGINAL HOMEMADE AIR CONDITIONING
Materials:
Salvage from around the house a:
• large fan
• garbage can
Grab from Home Depot:
• 25 feet of 1/4 inch outer diameter (OD) copper tubing (~ $14)
• 20 feet of 1/4 inch inner diameter (ID) vinyl tubing (~ $6)
• a package of zipties (~ $3)
• 2 small hose clamps (~ $1)
Here's the basic setup. The garbage can is filled
with ice water, which is then fed by gravity
(a siphon) through the copper tubing coiled
along the back of the fan. The hot air passing
through the tubing warms the cold water, cooling
the air. Waste warm water is then pumped outside.
The system will cool an average room to a
comfortable level in approximately 15-20 minutes.
Depending on flow rate, a full bucket of water
will last approximately 1-3 hours. I use a single
bucket before bed on hot nights, which lets me
get to sleep. Once the water runs out, the house
has cooled off enough that the fan alone provides
sufficient cooling.
It doesn't rip quite as hard as central air,
but for less than $25 CAD I'm not complaining.
(and, btw, that's my girlfriend's makeup mirror, not mine)
The main factor affecting the performance is
the temperature of incoming water.
Cool water will work, but ice water
will result in a cooler room, quicker.
Add salt to the water if you're adding a large
volume of ice, as this will drop the freezing
point of the water and increase the cooling
effect of the fan.
You can attach the tubing to the front
of the fan as well. This will increase
performance, just make sure that your fan
can handle the additional torque of tubing
full of water attached to the front.
Here's what the fan looks like from the back.
The biggest issue in construction was uncoiling
25 feet of copper tubing in a 15 by 20 room.
Just be patient and don't attempt to bend the copper
too severly, it'll fold over on itself and you've
effectively chopped your nice copper tubing in two.
When coiling the copper into a spiral on the back
of the fan, I started in the middle and put zipties
every 15-30 cm (6-12 inches). Use your discretion,
you want to preserve the spiral shape and keep
the tubing as close to the metal mesh as you can.
If you're a bit crazy, sand the paint off the back
to improve heat transfer from the metal mesh.
It doesn't really matter how it looks as long as it's
reasonably spaced out and consistent.
A hint for construction: prebend your zipties
into a J shape. Then you can hook them easilyin and back out of the metal mesh on the back
of the fan. I'd suggest cutting off any extra plastic once you've got them on.
Some have suggested using an old car radiator attached to the front of the fan instead of coiled
copper tubing. Cost prevented me from trying this, but as long as the head loss from the radiator is low enough to allow the siphon to operate, this should increase the performance
(better heat exchange). As well, make sure your fan can handle the weight of the radiator.
If you look closely, you can see the condensation
from the incoming icewater, but no condensation
on the tubing leading out. This is perfect, as it
means that heat is being transferred from the
room to the water.
Once you've got the copper tubing coiled, the
rest is easy. Cut your vinyl tubing into 2 pieces,
with one about twice the length of the other
(one piece 6-7 feet, other piece 13-14 feet).
Attach the shorter piece to the incoming side
of the copper tubing. It should slide relatively
easily over the copper, but be snug. Attach the hose
clamp and tighten. Following a similar procedure,
attach the longer piece to the outgoing side of the
copper tubing. (I don't believe it really matters
whether you feed cold water from the inside or the
outside. It's up to you to run some numbers.)
Submerge the shorter end of the vinyl tubing in the garbage can (washed and clean). I suggest weighing down the end of the tube, to avoid it drawing in air and stopping the system. I used twist-ties to attach a thin rock to the end. If you have fishing weights, I would suggest using those.
Next, hang the longer tubing out your window.
For the gravity pump to work, the end of the
tubing must be below the water level of your
garbage can, plus an allowance for head loss
in the pipe. Just to be safe, get it as low as
you can. I'd suggest arranging it so the waste
water will feed into a garden, but student
ghettos don't have gardens so in this picture
it's being fed into a drain by the basement.
I had to poke a small hole in my screen
for this to work.
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